Razor clams with Denhay bacon and wild garlic
Razor clams are one of my favourite shellfish and are becoming more popular in good fishmongers. They have the texture of squid and the sweetness of scallops. Cured pork, such as bacon or chorizo, partners shellfish such as razors or scallops really well, and that slightly salty fat just naturally seasons the dish.
12 or so large razor clams
Half a glass of white wine
120g–150g Denhay streaky bacon, cut into small squares
70g–80g unsalted butter
A couple of handfuls of wild garlic leaves
Salt and freshly ground
Rinse the razor clams in cold water, then put them in a large saucepan with the wine and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Place on a high heat for about 1–2 minutes or until they’re just opened, then remove from the heat. Remove the meat from the razors, cut away the dark sac in the centre and give them a quick rinse where the sac was to remove any sand, and cut the razors into three pieces.
Heat the butter in a large frying pan and cook the bacon for 2–3 minutes on a high heat, add the wild garlic leaves and razor-clam meat, season and cook on a low heat for a couple of minutes until the garlic leaves are just wilting and the razor-clam meat is hot. Heat the shells briefly under
a warm grill and spoon the clams, bacon and garlic into the shells.
Mark Hix’s ‘Seasonal Food’ is available from Quadrille at £25 (www.restaurantsetcltd.co.uk)